![]() The charger is another consideration as without it the batteries would die. there are more costly inverters out there with grid tie ability and builtin chargers. without this this could be as dangerous as connecting a generator up to the grid when it's not designed to do so. disconnects are fused and protect you from having multiple power sources active to the same wire. One more requirement would be a way to introduce or switch the inverter into the household circuits as most do not get connected to the grid. if you place other items on the inverter then it all must be figured into the requirements additively. the surge could easily exceed several times the constant power the boiler requires even though it's to be for a few seconds. On the inverter's requirements, be sure to get a sinewave inverter and that it can take not only the constant power needed by the boiler, but also the surge power it will require upon startup. this figure must be doubled because you shouldn't drain the battery or batteries below 50% depth of discharge. ![]() any way, when you decide on the battery voltage suitable for the system divide the watts by the battery voltage to come up with the amps. if the system isn't large you can go with 12v, but do be sure to size your wires correctly as too small of wires will introduce too much resistance and of course lessen the overall efficiency more. this power is in watts which is volts x amps. once you find out that info you should add another 25% or so for inefficiencies in the inverter and charging inefficiencies. in any case you need to know how much the total draw will be and for how long it will be needed to provide this backup power. The guys at wind and sun forum disagree with Mr havac.
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